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Before I present my pattern hack of Sofilantjes’ latest release, the Permeo*, two things need to be said:
1. Permeo is a versatile pattern, which has enough options already. You’ll need many meters of fabric and a lot of time to make all possible combinations of the options that are included in the pattern. Thus, the pattern in and of itself is complete.
2. Permeo is designed for girls: the various neckline options and the waist are typically girly. I do not say that a boy cannot or should not wear it, — that is up to the boy himself or the person who dresses him, — but usually girls will wear the Permeo.
Having that said, it is still nice to be creative and try out different options that do not directly come with the pattern, AND it is possible to easily adjust the pattern in such a way that it becomes more boyish.
When I worked on a Permeo for my daughter, I discovered that the pattern actually contained a fourth option, for which you don’t have to change anything to the pattern. This option is the simple V-neckline. Then, I immediately thought: a V-neckline is suitable for boys too! I especially like the stripes on the sleeves for boys, so I wanted to try it out. This was the shirt I made for Little Mr SieBe:
Later on, a few changes have been made to the pattern. Thus, in the next phase of the test, I have made a new boys’ version.
What did I change to the pattern to make a boys’ Permeo?
First, I took the left side of the front bodice, with the flared sleeve (see picture below).
Then, I drew a straight line down from the arm pit to the hem of the shirt. The first time I think the shirt could have been more narrow, and the second time somewhat broader, so next time I will draw the line somewhere in between. 😉 You can compare the width with a good fitting pattern piece to get it right. I also adjusted the hemline, and made it straight. I took the length the original pattern piece has in the center.
Next, I cut out the pattern piece following my own drawn lines, the original lines at the upper parts (neckline, shoulder and flared sleeve), and the dashed center-line on the right (red lines in the picture above). This is the pattern piece for the front bodice, and can be cut on the fold. I made the same adjustments to the back bodice pattern piece. The other pattern pieces do not have to be changed.
The only thing you still need is the neckline binding. I made mine out of a regular jersey (CL), as the Permeo requires. I measured the neckline: it was, if I remember correctly, about 40 cms for size 12m. I multiplied this by 0.85 and added 2 cm: 40 x 0,85 + 2 = 36 cm. I cut out a band of 36 x 4 cm. Because the pattern is called Permeo, which means ‘cross over’, I thought I should keep a cross-over element in it. Therefore, I decided to use the V-neckline binding method of the Sofilantjes’ Cessim shirt pattern. This one has a crossover in the binding itself!
How did I sew it together?
I followed the following instructions: steps 2-5, 25, and 32. What I did differently though, is that I top-stitched the seams of the stripes to the stripe itself instead of to the bodice. I think this gives it a cooler and more sporty look, which I like for boys. This was not my own idea, though, I was inspired by another tester. It is also cool for girls!
For the neckline binding I followed the instructions of the Cessim: steps 22-27.
That’s it! The most difficult part is definitely the neckline binding, but practice makes perfect, and this hack gives you another opportunity to practice if you are not yet proficient in sewing V-necklines, like me.
Little Mr SieBe is wearing a Beatum (Sofilantjes as well) in the
same color as the stripe and neckband of his shirt.
Did you notice that this pattern has cool colorblock options? You can make the front including sleeves in a different color than the back. It works also for the unaltered Permeo for girls! I made this one for Miss SieBe:
Did you make a Permeo for boys as well? I’d love to see it! Leave a comment here, post it on instagram (#permeoforboys), or in the Sofilantjes Sew and Show FB group.
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