Advena with stripe

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Already back in February, I had the idea to make this Advena* top (pattern from Sofilantjes*; this is the baby version, but it also comes in larger sizes) for Little Mr SieBe. Then, I made Miss SieBe a Permeo* dress for her birthday from this nice Wild Shadows panel from Swafing.

It was quite a puzzle to get the two horses on her dress at the right places, but there was a third horse left on the panel. I found out that this horse fitted exactly on the middle front pattern piece of the Advena Baby size 12m/80, the size of Little Mr SieBe. No millimeter left! So I cut that piece, but other projects had priority and I left this one unfinished.

Last week I thought I it was time to finish it before Little Mr SieBe would have outgrown size 12m/80 and before it gets too hot for a FT top. While working on it, I thought it would be nice to make a stripe on the sleeve, just like the Permeo has. To give it a cooler look, I decided to do the topstitching on the stripe, instead of on the sleeve. It was a little more complicated then on the Permeo, but perfectly doable.

This is how I did it:

  1. Cutting instructions: Remove the 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the shoulders. NB: this only works with neckline option A! Do not cut the sleeves on the fold, but in two mirrored pieces (so you’ll cut 2x two pieces).
  2. Sew the bodice pieces together (till step 5 of the instructions), but do not sew the shoulder seams yet.
  3. Sew the sleeve pieces together on the short sides. Repeat for the other sleeve.
  4. Now sew the sleeve to the bodice, lining out the seam of the sleeve with the center of the side piece, just like you would usually do. (see picture below)
The sleeve sewed to the bodice

5. Measure the length from the neckline to the hem of the sleeve. This is the length of the stripe. Cut a pattern piece of this length and 4 cm (1 1/2″) width. Cut two stripes from your fabric. Best use a fabric of a similar weigth as the main fabric.

6. Sew a stripe right sides together to the front of the bodice on the shoulder/sleeve. And then the other side of the stripe to the back of the bodice’s shoulder/sleeve seam. Repeat for the other side/sleeve (see picture)

The stripe sewn between the front and back of the bodice and sleeve

7. Iron the seams, fold them either to the stripe or to the bodice/sleeve and topstitch. This can be a little tricky since the sleeves does not leave so much room to sew, but it worked for me with size 12m/80. I don’t think it will work with longsleeves though.

The stripe with topstitching

8. Finish the top/dress like you would usually do: sew the neckband, and hem. I didn’t hem on top of the stripe, and I didn’t topstitch the neckline on top of the stripe, because I like that better, but you can do as you prefer.

9. That’s it! Enjoy the result!

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