Fortuna with Zipper Pocket

The new pattern from Sofilantjes*, the Fortuna Sweater*, has various options to make it in your own style, but also offers possibilities of making it even more fancy. Of course, you can use your own creativity, but in the instructions that come with the pattern, various tips are included. One of these is adding zippers to the pockets, and that is what this blog is all about. I will show how I made zipper pockets in the Fortuna Sweater. It was kind of an experiment for me, but I liked the challenge. I chose for blind zippers, because I think they combine nicely with the look of the lace overlay that I used for one of the colorblock parts of the front bodice. Good to know: Since the pockets in the Cicero Jacket* are constructed in a similar way, this tutorial can also be used for the pockets in that pattern.


You will need:

  • all pattern pieces for Fortuna option A with pockets
  • two blind zippers, about 5 cm longer than the pocket opening
  • four (or eight) strips of fusible interfacing

Sew the three colorblocking pieces of the front bodice and the two pieces of the back bodice. You can sew the shoulder seams, but I found it easier to sew them after I did the pockets. Iron the strips of interfacing on the back of the bodices, where you will sew the pockets. Your strips need to be the same length as your pocket pieces. Optionally, add strips as well to your pocket pieces.

Apply the strips of fusible interfacing

Step 1 Sew zipper to the pocket

Take one pair of pocket pieces and one zipper. Now we are going to sew the zipper to the pocket pieces. Open the zipper and place it with the back side of the zipper (which you want to be inside the pocket) on the right side of your fabric. Pin it and make sure that you have 1 cm seam allowance at the top. Stitch at about 0,4 cm from the zipper teeth, leaving the first and last cm open (seam allowance). Back stitch at both sides. Perhaps you can stitch closer to the zipper teeth, but I didn’t want it to be in the way for the outer fabric.

Fold your fabric back, and topstitch. Repeat all steps for the other side of the zipper and sew it in the same way to the other pocket piece of your pair.

Step 2 Sew you pocket pieces with zipper to the bodice

With the zipper open, place one of the pocketpieces with zipper on the bodice, with right sides up, and the pocket away from the bodice. Make sure the zipper teeth, when folded open are at 1 cm from the side (seam allowance). To keep it in place I used wash away glue. You can also use wondertape.

Pin from the right side, fold the zipper teeth to the side and sew with your blind zipper foot or in another way you prefer, as close as you can to the teeth. Again observe the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the pocket. Repeat for the other side of the zipper and sew this to the back bodice. You can now close and open the zipper. When you did it the right way, you can only see the zipper lip when the zipper is closed. Repeat step 1 and 2 for the other pocket.

Step 3 Finishing the zipper

Before sewing the side seams and the pocket closed, open the zipper, fold the top end of the zipper under and sew with a few stitches (picture left below)

Then close the zipper partly, and pin the side seam and pocket right sides together. Stitch at the red lines with your regular sewing machine. The stitching at the bottom of the pocket goes only to the bodices (in the seam allowance). Then sew the side seams and pockets closed and cut off the zipper ends.

Step 4 Finishing the Sweater

Baste the pockets to the front bodice (as per instructions). Sew on the waistband. Because the side seams are quite bulky already, I decided to place the seam of the waistband in the center back. I would advise to first sew the waistband on with the regular sewing machine, and then finish the seam with the serger/overlock. Make sure you don’t catch the end of your zipper with the knife, cause it might shorten it’s life. Then you can finish the rest of the sweater as per instructions.

The Result

Give the sweater to your model and hopefully you have made someone happy!

I like the result, and so does my daughter. However, I am not a professional seamstress, and I don’t have a lot of experience in sewing zippers, and even less in blind zippers. I searched for instructions for adding blind zippers to pockets, but since I didn’t find them, I made the method up myself. I enjoyed this challenge. However, this also means that probably some steps can be made easier or more professional, or I forgot important in-between-steps. If you have more experience and know how things can be improved, I would love you to leave a comment. We can all learn from each other!

Would you like to read and see more of the Fortuna Sweater? You can read my other blog post about the Fortuna too, where I also show the sweater I made for Little Mr SieBe. If you enjoyed this blog post, you are always welcome to follow me on Instagram (@siebesew), or to subscribe to my blog below!

This post contains affiliate links, indicated by an *. If you click on these links and purchase an article, you support my sewing hobby without paying anything extra.

Preparing for winter with the Brooklynn Scarf

The trees in front of our appartment block, that color beautifully red in autumn, have lost almost all of their leaves. Temperatures drop, especially in the early morning when we head to school and work. Time for warm and cozy clothes! The release of the Brooklynn Triangle Scarf by the new designer Fab For You Patterns couldn’t come at a better moment. Yvette from Fab For You is not new to designing  ̶ I have tested for her before  ̶ , but now she has her own pattern company. I was very excited to test for her again. I am testing more of her patterns, two other will release very soon, so stay tuned!

The Brooklynn scarf can be made out of any fabric you like. Choose thick and warm fabrics for winter or thinner fabrics for other seasons. I made this one out of viscose jersey (black with flowers), and minky fleece (pink). Both were small scraps I liked, but didn’t know what to do with. The closing of the scarf is totally up to you. I chose for a snap in the shape of a heart (always a winner!). What I like most about this pattern is that it is different from the scarfs I know.

Snap closure

The pattern includes kids and adult sizes. It is on sale for a week (50% off):

RAWR! Be Careful, a Dinosaur Nobilis!

Today I am writing about something I really like, but usually do not take time for: use my own creativity to make something unique. I hacked the Nobilis* pattern from Sofilantjes*. At first, I found this pattern cute, but not especially so for my own children. Then, it appeared to me that it would be a perfect pattern to hack for costumes. The low crotch, not my favorite for daily wear – I don’t know why -, is perfect for an animal costume!

So I decided to give it a try and made a dinosaur costume for Little Mr SieBe. We have quite some costumes at home, but most of it is princess-related and owned by his big sister. Although he wears these skirts and dresses now and then, I think the costume box can be more varied for more playing fun.

I’d like to explain in this blog how I made the dinosaur costume. First, I searched for inspiration pics on the internet. This helped me to decide what the costume should look like and what elements I had to add to the original pattern. I added a hood with eyes, a mouth and teeth, spikes, a colorblock on the front, and a tail. Because of the hood I had to add a zipper for Little Mr SieBe to be able to take on and off the jumpsuit. I sized up for several reasons. First, so that it would fit over normal clothes, and second because I think he should not outgrow it too fast. I don’t have time to undertake such a big project often. I made it two sizes larger in width, and one size longer than his size according to the size table. It is still an experiment, so I see some points of improvement.

Colorblock and arm cuffs

I added a colorblock to the front. I drew this myself and made sure to add seam allowance to both parts. I sewed them together, pressed it and continued with assembling. I added cuffs to the sleeves. In that way, I could make them a bit longer, to allow some growing room.

Hood and zipper

I used the hood of the Cicero* jacket, also by Sofilantjes. I drew the neckline of the Cicero on the Nobilis, so that the hood would fit well. I used the instructions for the zipper as well from the Cicero. Only at the bottom it was a bit different, since I used a non-divisible zipper instead of the divisible zipper that is required by Cicero. To make it work, I sewed in the zipper before sewing the inside leg seam. Instead of cutting one piece on the fold, I cut the front piece two times mirrorred, adding seam allowance at the side of the zipper.

Mouth with teeth and eyes

The inside of the hood I made red, the color of the inside of the mouth. I added a mouth piece I drew myself to the hood (between the inner and outer hood pieces). For more stability, I added 5 mm thick interfacing to the mouth piece. For the teeth, which I sewed between this mouth piece, and the eyes I used white and black.

Spikes and tail

I made three rows of spikes: four on the hood, five on the back and four on the tail. I drew this piece myself. For each row, I cut out two pieces and reinforced them both with heavy fusible interfacing. Then, I sewed the pieces right sides together leaving the bottom open. I trimmed back the corners, and turned it right sides out. For each spike I cut a triangle of the 5 mm thick interfacing, and put it on the inside of the spikes. Those rows I sewed in between the two outside hood pieces, the back, and the tail. For the back I cut two pieces mirrorred instead of one on fold. I added seam allowance to the centre back. The tail I drew myself, two mirrored pieces, sewed it right sides together, with the spikes in between, left it open on the top, turned it right side out and filled it with the material you can use for teddies and cushions. The tail I sewed in between the two back pieces at the very bottom.

It is not perfect, for example I am not so happy with how the tail turned out, since the spikes fall down to one side instead of staying up. However, I am quite satisfied with the total result on this first try. If you have any tips or know tricks to make it better next time, I’d love to hear them. Please leave a comment below (can also be in Dutch or another language).

Little Mr SieBe loves to scare his grandparents, aunts, and uncles in his new costume, so I think it is a success.

Only a few days are left to get this pattern (and a few others) for less than usual. So if you feel inspired and want to get creative to and create your own costume, this is your chance! The pattern comes in three languages: English*, Dutch*, and French*. Click on the language of your preference and you will be directed to the pattern on the website. I can’t wait to see what costumes you will create! I already received an order for another jumpsuit: a Unicorn costume for Miss SieBe.

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This post contains affiliate links, indicated by an *. If you click on these links and purchase an article, you support my sewing hobby without paying anything extra.

Risu or Risias

The Risu Dress* from Sofilantjes. I fell immediately in love with this dress when I first saw it. It is so stylish! It took some time before I finally started sewing it, but I did. Although I like the skirt of the Risu, I thought that the skirt of the Ferias would be a good match too with the Risu bodice. And I expected that this combination would be nice on Miss SieBe. So I created the Risias. What do you think, was I right?

She loves the dress. Despite blue isn’t her favorite color anymore, she still likes it for clothes. I am happy with that because it looks good on her, with her blue eyes, which she is hiding now behind her sunglasses.

The back is eye-catching, but also the front neckline is special! Love those details. I made the dress with short sleeves, but it also has 3/4 and long sleees as option.

I love that almost all Sofilantjes dresses allow to exchange the skirts. I would love to try out the Risu skirt too, perhaps combined with the bodice of another dress. I might choose for Ferias, and combine it the other way around, but I might decide otherwise. We’ll see. Suggestions and inspirational pics are always welcome.

Find the Risu here in (click on your language of preference): Dutch*, English*, French*.

Risu is now on sale, as is the Montis*. I’ve made a Montis last year, and I might make one this year also. Or combine its bodice with the Risu skirt. We’ll see. 😉

I hope you will enjoy the pattern and I would love to see how you combine the bodice or the skirt with those of other Sofilantjes dresses! You are always welcome to follow me on Instagram (@siebesew), or to subscribe to my blog below!

This post contains affiliate links, indicated by an *. If you click on these links and purchase an article, you support my sewing hobby without paying anything extra.

Amicis: A friendly fitting pattern

Sofilantjes* released a new pattern, well, not totally new, since this pattern already exists in children’s sizes*, but now the Amicis* is available for adults too! I got the chance to sew this great pattern before the release. I sewed two up until now, but will show only the first one, since I don’t have pics yet of the second one. Something with a child that hides important notions on top of a high mirror… yes, he is only three years old. Fortunately, the five-year-old told me where it was after I asked, and after I searched a whole evening.

Back to the Amicis. This pattern comes in four lengths: top, tunic, knee length dress, and midi dress. Three sleeve lengths are featured: short, half, and long, all cuffed. I have first made the top length with short sleeves, looking forward to warmer temperatures. The back has a center seam for optimal fit, because this pattern is meant to be fitted to the body. This might sound scary when you rather hide certain parts of your body, but I must say that the pattern still is very friendly: It doesn’t hide everything, but it shows bodies in all sizes in a beautiful way. Perhaps that’s where the name comes from: Amicis comes from the Latin word amicus, which means friend. Look at the pictures on the website* and in the Sofilantjes Sew and Show group on Facebook to see how flattering it is

Of course, as with all patterns, but maybe even a little bit more with this one, it is important to measure meticulously and adapt the pattern according to your measurements. This is all explained in the instructions. My measurements fall in three different sizes, the largest being three sizes bigger than the smallest, and I had to do a FBA, so I had quite some work at this point. But once you have the right pattern, you can use it over and over again. That’s a good thing with this pattern, because it is absolutely a wardrobe staple for all seasons!

I already told that the back center seam is helpful for the best fit and, therefore, I wouldn’t want to miss it. However, it is impossible to match most motives on fabrics. I don’t really like that, so I tend to use solids or fabrics with rather small motives for patterns with a back center seam, but I found another ‘solution’: a band to hide the seam and the uneven matching sides. It not only hides, but also adds a nice little extra detail.

That’s it for now I think. As I told, I have made a second one. And …. a matching one for Miss SieBe! Hope to post about those dresses soon! Stay tuned!

The release sale will run through May 11, 00.00 CET (6 pm CET). The pattern is on sale for €6,50 – excl taxes, no code needed.

Dutch: *

English: *

French: *

I hope you will love this pattern as much as I do! You are always welcome to follow me on Instagram (@siebesew), or to subscribe to my blog below!

This post contains affiliate links, indicated by an *. If you click on these links and purchase an article, you support my sewing hobby without paying anything extra.

Stricta: Not just another Skinny Jogger

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A new release from Sofilantjes*: the Stricta Skinny Jogger*! It released together with the Flora Flared Pants*. Two new pants patterns with lots of options. Enough for a wardrobe full of varied pants. In this post I will tell about the Stricta. My next blog post, about the Flora, will follow soon after this one, so stay tuned!

Up until now, I have made five Stricta’s. Four for Little Mr SieBe, and one for Miss SieBe. I will show three of them and a detail of a fourth, the second I made. I didn’t make all the options, but I love the options that are included in the pattern. The pattern has two, actually three, length options: long, 7/8, and 3/4 as add-on option. I have made only long ones. Eventually, they might become 7/8 after a while ;). Other options I didn’t make are the split and zipper.

I will start showing the joggers I made Little Mr SieBe. I chose for a jeans look French Terry in ochre/yellow I bought from Hip & Eigenwijs. I made front pockets, the faux fly, a color block backpocket, and yoga waistband. Last but not least, I used the bikerparts from the tip section. These were added in a later stage of the test as an extra present from the designer. So cool! Love this option so much!

I made pintucks on the bikerparts, and also on one part of the backpocket. I screen printed two very small lightnings. These extra details match the lightning in the Potens Sweater*, which I hacked to add a hood. Little Mr SieBe asked for it. He is really into hoods these days! The also asked for two pockets, but I decided that the pockets in his Stricta should be enough for now.

Did you see the front pockets above?

This is such a fun detail of this pattern with the two crossing bands. I like the look of two different colors for these bands, which I chose for on my first two Stricta’s.

I just have to show this.

Before the yellow Stricta, I made a grey one, also in jeans look French Terry (which I bought from Senza Limits), and with bikerparts. Also for this one I made pintucks on the bikerparts. The bikerparts are a little different from the ones that are part of the final pattern, but cool as well! And the fit is just like in the final pattern, so this one is absolutely worth showing. I made an Omni Tempore* (currently in the sale!) for him to wear on this Stricta.

I made this one with pocket facing, instead of topstiching the pocket to the pants. This didn’t work out very well without the bands, we found out as testers, so I stiched it partly to the jogger. That’s fine for this one, but I won’t use the facing without. To resemble the bikerparts, I added some pintucks to the back pocket as well. This one has a regular waistband.

After two and a detail that I showed already, we’ve come to the last Stricta that I will show in this blog. The one I made for Miss SieBe. This is a plain one, without front pockets. I added the backpockets of the Flora Flared Pants. Nice to know: most backpockets from the Sofilantjes pants patterns can be exchanged!

I used a bengaline stretch fabric (from Textielstad) for this one. I complemented it with a Nivalis* tunic. The stricta is definitely not a legging, but can very well be combined with tunics. Inside it is all black and white, when the sun shines many colors will pop up on the tunic.

Ok, I think I have showed and told enough about Stricta. Now it is your turn to start sewing. The pattern is available in three languages. It is on sale until March 22, 8.00 CET for EUR 5,51 ex taxes.

English – *

Nederlands – *

Français – *

Don’t forget to look out for my blog post about the Flora! If you don’t want to miss it, you can subscribe below, or follow me on Instagram @siebesew.

Meet the Blue-Denia

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This blog is about a dress that I already made in the beginning of the summer. I already told in my previous blog post that I am getting behind with blogging. But this dress, the Blue-Denia, is too cute not to show here. It is a mash of two patterns from Sageville Patterns*: the Gardenia* Dress, which I tested in the beginning of July, and the Bluebird*, the first pattern I tested for them. I love how it turned out. I was planning on having my blog ready when the blog about it on the website of Sageville Patterns was published. I did not manage to, because that was the first day of my holiday, and the days before I was packing.

Actually, the timing of the present blog post is not bad right now, for this dress is perfect for the cooler summer days and warm days in autumn, so good to make in this time of the year, at least in my part of the world. So, as I already told above, this pattern mash is published on the blog of Sageville Patterns. Isn’t that cool? That’s why I won’t place a tutorial here, but only a link to their blog, because all I did to create this look is explained there! Click here* to go to the blog post about the Blue-Denia. But don’t forget to come back here ;).

The Blue-Denia combines the maxi length dress and the colorblock godets from the Gardenia with the body with sleeves and a hood from the Bluebird. You can, of course, vary on this hack by making the dress with longsleeves, or using the crew neckline from the Bluebird instead of the hood. Or you might like the knee length dress better than the maxi. And it also works for the adults sizes of course! It is all up to you! Only thing you need are both patterns. Nice to know: In the blog post of Sageville Patterns is a discount code you can use, should you not have either or both of these patterns yet!

We’ve made the pictures on the beach as you can see. I loved to see Miss SieBe playing in this dress with the sand and shells. I was a bit worried that a maxi dress would hinder her, but the length didn’t seem to bother her at all. She moved elegantly in her dress as she has always worn maxi dresses.

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Gardenia Dress & Top

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I am a bit behind with my blog. It’s summer vacation time, we have been away for a while, which was a period without sewing. After that I have sewn several items, but didn’t show them here. For example, in the beginning of July, I tested a great new pattern from Sageville Patterns*: the Gardenia Dress and Top*.

The Gardenia is a versatile pattern, featuring four lengths (top, tunic, above knee dress, and maxi dress), no sleeves or cold shoulder flutter sleeves, bands or binding, and lovely godet side panels that are perfect for colorblocking. It comes in kids and adults sizes, and I tested both. For myself I made a simple, but elegant, summer dress, with binding, and a colorblocked top, with a combination of binding and bands, because I broke my last twin needle.

For Miss SieBe I made also an above the knee summer dress. For her I chose for the cold shoulder sleeves, which I doubled with a layer of lace. I love it on her. Perfect for a day on the beach.

At the end of the test, Amanda from Sageville Patterns, posted the challenge to hack the pattern or mash it with another pattern. I immedialy thought of combining the Bluebird top and the Gardenia Dress. She let me experiment with it, and a lovely dress for Miss SieBe was the result. I will show this dress in my next blog post.

Find the links to the patterns here:




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Royal mommy-and-me dresses

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This post was supposed to be published way earlier, but other things got in between, and before you know, it is months later. Nevertheless, since the Regina from Sofilantjes* is an all-time favorite for many, it is still relevant. Yes, this post is about the Regina*! I first heard about this pattern from a friend, when she used it for a birthday dress for her daughter. That was in the time I just started sewing and did not dare to make a dress yet. 😀

Less than a year later, when I bought my first patterns from Sofilantjes, the Regina* was the first one I selected. I love its characteristic neckline, with gives it its royal look. I made one for Miss SieBe with long sleeves for fall and winter and knew I would make many more in the years to come. It is a pattern that can be used the whole year around with its three sleeve length options. And with several skirt options, there’s enough to vary.

You won’t be surprised that I was very happy when last January, Anne Jacobs, the designer from Sofilantjes, announced that she was working on the Regina in adult sizes*. When the pattern finally released in March, I couldn’t wait to sew one up. My first regina I made in a solid dark blue fabric, with the thought that if it wouldn’t fit properly, I could use the fabric for clothes for the kids, so it won’t be wasted.

However, I didn’t need to cut it in pieces, for I was very happy with the result. Now I am wearing this dress very often, even at the moment of writing this blog. The dress is good friends with the washing machine! I did not have enough fabric for the 3/4 circle skirt AND long sleeves, so I made the half length sleeves with that circle skirt. Now I am happy with that length, for it is perfect for spring and cooler summer days.

I already had a fabric in mind for my second regina, the Zelda design from A Spark of Happiness. When that fabric came in, Miss SieBe, told me she loved it. She was disappointed that it was not for her, so I promised her that when there would be some fabric left, I would make something for her as well.

At that time, I was testing the Anna Apron from The Dutch Pattern Farm and needed a quick dress to match the apron, and this fabric was perfect for that. After calculating, I found out that I had enough for matching regina’s!!! I couldn’t start yet though, because to be completely sure, I wanted to cut out my own dress first, and then the dress for Miss SieBe. And before I could cut out her dress, I wanted to make a muslin for her first as well. I chose the half circle skirt from the add-on. So that was what I started with:

When I found out the fit was right, I immediately continued with the other dress, because I needed it for the final pics of the Anna Apron. Hemming had to wait after I finished our twinning dresses! 😉

Soon after the dress for Miss SieBe followed my own dress. For both dresses I chose the gathered skirt with short sleeves. The girls’ regina officially doesn’t have a gathered skirt, but the pleated skirt can also be gathered, so that is what I did. And I am very happy with the result!

I looked for a good occassion to wear our twinning dresses for the first time, and that was Easter (Yes, yes, a while ago). Unfortunately, we didn’t meet any family or friends that day, because of the Covid-19 restrictions, but we had a video-call-breakfast with the family. Though we don’t have a fancy camera on our laptop, they noticed that we were wearing the same dress! On a later occassion, when we could meet my parents again, I asked my father to photograph us. So credits for the pictures are for him!

Pattern: Regina dress and tunic from Sofilantjes. Click here for the aff links*: Kids English, Kids Dutch, Adults English, Adults Dutch, Bundle English, Bundle Dutch. (a French version can also be found on the website).
Fabric: The pink dress with flowers is a coupon I bought from Holland Stoffenhuis; The blue-white fabric of the other dresses is Zelda, from A spark of Happiness.

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Stella on a toddler

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Here is the promised second post about the Stella jumpsuit, a pattern from Sofilantjes*. In my first post I explained how I made the print continue on both sides of the jumpsuit. Initially, I planned to add just one or two modelled pictures to my first post. Then, I tried to make these pictures, and had to conclude that it didn’t give me the result I wished. It turned out to be impossible to take the photo I wanted. However, it gave me a bunch of other photo’s that I’d like to show.

I dressed Little Mr. SieBe, took my camera, and found him like this:

So, I took him to the place where I wanted to take pics, closed the snaps again, took my photo camera, looked up ready to shoot, and saw:

So I started again, and again, and again, and he kept opening the snaps before I could take a picture. Besides, he had some other tricks to keep me from photographing him in his jumpsuit from the front with closed snaps:

In the end, I gave in, this was the best result I could get…

…until he fell asleep!

I could have known it would’nt be easy. He is in his terrible 2’s after all, so ‘no’ is his favorite word and action. I finished this jumpsuit back in January. Although he was still 1 at that time, he already did the same: opening all the buttons all the time. That’s why we put it away for a while. Unfortunately, he still knows the trick and has grown in between as you can see.

So, despite I love this pattern, and it is really cute on Little Mr. SieBe, I won’t be making another Stella for him any time soon. Luckily, the pattern starts from size NB / 50, so there will be enough opportunities to make it as a gift!

If you don’t have the pattern of the Stella Jumpsuit yet, you can buy it on the website of Sofilantjes in English*, Dutch,* or French*. It comes in sizes 50-92 / NB – 2y.

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I welcome comments, advice on how to photograph a toddler, questions, or what else you have to say!